Have you ever noticed how some people have the happy habit of being charming and interesting persons?..]]> You can start right now to win your way with others by remembering, "Habit is the deepest law of human nature." (Carlyle) Also, "Habit is necessary to give power." (Hazlitt)

Have you ever noticed how some people have the happy habit of being charming and interesting persons? You like them instinctively and you have the feeling that they like you also. And also notice how others habitually fail to attract either attention or admiration? You just can’t warm up to them.

Now, then, it is a well-known psychological law that a habit is formed through pleasurable repetition. The first time we tasted candy we liked the taste. Because we wanted to continue the pleasure we repeated the tasting. This established the pleasant habit of enjoying candy. It is something we like to be associated with constantly.

The very same principle applies in a person-to-person relationship. Someone meets you and you offer him a pleasant smile. Because he likes to be smiled at, he goes away with a warm memory of your smile. The next time you meet him perhaps you say something complimentary about him. Your compliment reinforces the warmth already generated by the previous smile. He enjoys thoroughly the pleasurable sensation-upon-pleasurable sensation.

The third time you meet, ask him to tell you about himself. This adds a third pleasure to the first two. About this time his mind gratefully asks, "Why do I feel so good?" Another part of his mind replies, "Because of the person who supplies you with your warm feelings." He now associates you with his pleasant feeling of self-esteem. His liking for himself overflows into a liking for you. He can’t help but be attracted to the author of his pleasure.

Furthermore, because he likes you he will want to please you. So that you will continue to supply him with pleasurable feelings, he will do whatever he can to supply you with the same. (Here we see at work the familiar law of give and take.)

Summary: Your repeated pleasantries will induce the other person to habitually yield to you the very best that he or she possesses. By this means you can build a habit of winning others the effortless way.

One way to establish yourself as a repeated winner in your human relations is to observe people closely.

It will help you to remember that there is no such thing as knowing all there is to know about engaging and winning people. You must continually seek to understand why and how people behave as they do, for "Whatever you cannot understand you cannot possess." (Goethe) The campaign requires constant additions to your know-how. Knowledge piled upon knowledge gives you power upon power.

You can gather all sorts of useful information about people just by watching their physical movements, such as the way they walk and gesture. Dr. Sandor S. Feldman points out, "Every human being has his own particular gait through which he can be characterized and recognized."

People who fail to get places with other people are like the little boy who kept falling out of bed at night. When his mother asked him why it always happened he shrugged his reply, "I guess it’s because I stay too near the place where I got in."

You need not fall out in your relations with others. Not if you will persistently go beyond whatever knowledge about people you now possess. Not if you will assume that there is always a lot more to learn. There always is. "Victory," declared Napoleon, "belongs to the most persevering."

Bowling shoes can be rented at most lanes, but many people hesitate to wear a pair of shoes that someone else has worn. If you feel that way, you should purchase your own...]]> One of the wonderful things about this sport of ours is that the participant is not required to go out and purchase a lot of costly, ornate equipment.

Bowling shoes can be rented at most lanes, but many people hesitate to wear a pair of shoes that someone else has worn. If you feel that way, you should purchase your own. Owning a pair of bowling shoes will also give you a bit more confidence. And they aren’t expensive.

There are many brands of bowling shoes on the market. You’re better off, however, with a good name brand. You can purchase either the high - or low - cut type. Most of the better bowlers today buy low-cut shoes.

There isn’t much use of taking the beginning bowler farther than this right now, but it should be pointed out briefly that after you go into league play you’ll probably wind up wearing a bowling shirt or blouse and trousers or skirt. You’ll be comfortable in them, and should bowl better.

When possible a bowler should buy his own ball. Every beginner should be fitted with conventional grip.

It’s no real problem for the young bowler to secure a ball he or she can use at any lane but such a ball might do them a lot of harm. They might think it’s a perfect fit but it may not be and can possibly make their hands sore.

Not only that, if the ball doesn’t fit them, they might bowl so badly that they become discouraged and lose interest in bowling.

Of course, there is one advantage to picking up a house ball. Most of them have the conventional grip which every beginner should use.

The trouble is that the bowling balls you find in many establishments are old and so worn that they often cause physical damage to the bowler’s hand.

Whenever possible a bowler should buy his or her own ball. And it should be purchased from a competent person, someone who knows how to measure the hand for a ball.

Well, first of all let’s consider what type of ball will serve the beginning bowler to the best advantage.

Every beginning bowler should be fitted with a conventional grip. There are three standard bowling grips: the conventional, semifingertip and the full fingertip. The semi has the advantage of added leverage, but, unless you bowl in a couple of leagues a week or do quite a bit of bowling, you shouldn’t go for it. As for the fingertip, I wouldn’t recommend it unless one does a lot of bowling. The disadvantages of the fingertip far outweigh its advantages.

I think bowlers should start out with a three-hole ball and if they decide to change later to a two-hole ball, well - okay.

So it seems to be the general agreement that the conventional grip and a three-hole ball are musts for beginners. But how can a beginner be sure he or she gets the proper fit in purchasing a ball? Any reputable dealer should be able to take care of them.

Being measured correctly is most important in purchasing a ball whether you buy the conventional, semi or full fingertip. When you put your thumb in the hole you should be able to turn it easily, but not sloppily. And for the conventional grip, the center of your knuckles should be over the center of the finger holes. Also, the finger holes should not be too loose. Better a bit the other way.

A new ball retails at from $25 to about $28.

The price of shoes varies for men and women. You can buy ladies’ shoes for from $6 to $14, while men’s shoes run from $9 to about $16. These prices might vary a bit, depending on where you live, but it certainly won’t be appreciable.

You want a bowling-ball bag one for carrying of your new ball and shoes.

You can pick up a bag at very low cost or you can really plunge. Bags start at $4 and run up to about $40 for the really elaborate ones.

Once you are set with this equipment, it is time to start bowling.

Actually, building a swing is much like an architect building a house...]]> Mastery of golf’s fundamentals is the first step toward better golf and consistent iron play. The fundamentals form the framework and the foundation upon which the entire swing is constructed.

Actually, building a swing is much like an architect building a house. If he builds it hurriedly - without a good set of plans - it becomes structurally weak and the slightest of pressures could send it tumbling to the ground. Such is the case in golf.

Since you are the principal architect of your swing, how can you develop it so that it will consistently repeat itself, swing after swing, no matter what club you may have in your hand? Here is how.

Developing the Swing

From the outset, every golfer should realize that certain procedures must be followed if he is to develop a swing.

There is a certain fundamental process, or sequence, involved in learning how to play golf, and it cannot be circumvented.

The Procedure. To the beginner, and even some advanced golfers, this fundamental process of learning how to play golf may seem a little involved, but it actually is not, particularly if you develop your game in an orderly, sensible manner. The orderly sequence would be this way:

1. You learn to swing first by practicing the fundamentals.
2. Secondly, you learn to control the ball by practicing intentional fades, hooks, high shots, and low shots.
3. Finally, incorporating the first two phases into your over-all game you learn how to score by playing as regularly as you can.

Obviously, you cannot learn control and scoring techniques before you master golf’s fundamentals. Many have tried - and are still trying - but they cannot hope to improve unless they overhaul their swing completely because the swing habits they have formed are permanently ingrained within their muscle structure. You will progress faster and will become a more consistent player if you form the correct habits of the swing than if you learn to play in a haphazard manner.

The Swing Exercise. One of the best methods I have found of developing a smooth, consistent swing is an exercise most golfers use when they warm up before playing a round of golf. It is a simple little maneuver designed to train a golfer to entrust his swing to his arms and body instead of his hands.

Begin by assuming the position of address, and make certain that you are comfortable and relaxed. Then, with the upper part of your arms and elbows in close to your chest, turn your body back so that the arms are about belt high. The left shoulder and left arm are highly instrumental in this turning movement, with both the shoulder and the arm forming a pushing-back type of action.

Next, swing the arms forward until they are about belt high in front of you, making certain that the lower part of the body - the left hip and left leg-initiate the forward swing, as the arms are swung out toward an imaginary target. The right hand also turns over the left hand as the arms are swung forward.

Perform this swing back and forth for a few moments, letting your left knee and right elbow flex on the backswing and then your right knee and left elbow on the follow-through. You will soon get the feeling that you are swinging with your legs and hips and that your body is swinging the club. This creates the feeling of the one-piece swing that all of the good players have and talk about.

The average golfer, however, courts disaster if he becomes too conscious of his hand action through the ball. That is why this swing exercise is so important, because it will teach him every fundamental movement in the swing without too much of a mental effort on his part.

If you will practice this swing - the right way - for five or ten minutes a day for six months, you will be surprised at your progress in developing a fundamentally sound swing.

This will be the start of improving your entire game of golf.

1. Check your boat thoroughly and never leave your mooring until you have done so.

2...]]> For anyone who owns a boat, there are ten rules which should always be kept in mind. There is also certain equipment which should always be carried aboard ship.

1. Check your boat thoroughly and never leave your mooring until you have done so.

2. Never over-load your boat and at all times be especially careful about non-swimmers and children.

3. Carry a life preserver for every person on board. Be sure they’re worn when doing deck duty in rough weather.

4. Carry filled fire extinguishers.

5. Exercise extreme caution when filling fuel tanks - no smoking - turn off all fires and electric accessories - hold filling nozzle firmly against fill pipe (ground it) - wipe up spillage - thoroughly ventilate engine compartment and all enclosed spaces before restarting motors.

6. Observe carefully weather, wind, tide and current conditions before starting. Plan emergency harbors on long hops.

7. Keep to the right when meeting another boat and give the right-of-way to vessels approaching in your danger zone on the starboard (right) side.

8. Always be Courteous, Careful and Competent. Watch your wash! Slow down to 4 mph in harbors. Keep away from large vessels, which are not as maneuverable as smaller craft. Keep away from all sail boats - small ones may be swamped by the wash from a motor boat and large sailing yachts do not have the maneuverability of a motor boat.

9. Never make a turn at high speed. Small craft can easily be and have been swamped by their own wash.

10. Approach dock or mooring slowly against the wind or current, whichever is strongest.

Articles of Equipment Which Should Be Aboard Every Well-Found Boat, Though Not Required By Law

The Motor Boat Act prescribes that motor boats must carry certain equipment for the safety of those aboard. This includes life preservers, lights, whistle, bell, fire extinguishers, name arresters on carburetors, ventilating cowls and ducts for the bilges, and the certificate of registration. These requirements vary with the class of boat, and certain exceptions are made in some classes.

In addition to this required equipment, however, there are other things which should be aboard before a boat may be considered to be well-found. The extent of cruising the boat does will determine the amount and kind of equipment, such items as anchors and lines, boat hook, fenders, bilge pump, tool kit, spare engine parts, piloting equipment, auxiliary lighting equipment, and such special safety equipment as ring buoys, flares, and a first aid kit.

In the same category with tools and spare parts we might include a few good carpenter’s tools, extra pieces of line of several sizes, a ball of marlin, an assortment of nails, screws, bolts, washers, wire, caulking cotton, paint, etc. On boats equipped with sails a small repair kit should be added containing twine, wax, needles, palm, fid, and similar articles. All should be properly stowed to keep it accessible and in good condition.

Other miscellaneous items would be a deck mop, pail (some prefer a canvas bucket), a chamois for cleaning windows, brass polish, a supply of oil for engine, grease (both the regular and waterproof varieties as required), some light machine oil and penetrating oil for rusted parts, vaseline, distilled water, a hydrometer, some clean rags and several rolls of paper towels. An emergency tiller is often carried.

Keep the ten rules of conduct outlined, and carry the equipment mentioned above, and you will be well-prepared for anything.

Canvas

I prefer linen...]]> The materials needed by the beginner for portrait painting are but few, but these should be of excellent quality and carefully selected. The materials required are: a canvas, a selection of brushes, linseed oil and of course a wide selection of paints. Once you have these materials you are ready to go.

Canvas

I prefer linen. It is a great aid to good painting, as the paint moves more freely and does not pull all the oil out of the pigment, leaving the painting dull and flat. However, for demonstrating and practice I quite often use good grade (hard) cotton.

Many students use prepared "panels" of canvas mounted on heavy cardboard. Each should be given a light coat of white shellac. Professionals more often prefer canvas bought by the yard or the roll and tacked onto the canvas stretchers obtainable at all dealers. I recommend this, or stretchers with canvas already in place.

Brushes

Like the Old Masters I choose the round bristle brush and use the side of it to apply the paint with a scratching movement (except when drawing the eyes and other fine details). This allows all the tones to come together in a soft blend, and your pigment will stand out and sparkle instead of pasting down to an enamel effect.

With brushes known as "flats" and "brights" - both of them thin - there is a tendency to flatten and paste down the color unpleasantly. Also, the flat stroke will invariably leave raised edges which call for some care if they are to be blended properly with the surrounding tones. (I do, however, use a flat brush for drawing.)

Care of Brushes

If you paint for two or three days in a row, just stand or rinse your brushes in kerosene. (Don’t stand them for long on their points.) When storing them for any length of time, wash them thoroughly with soap and cold water. Make sure the paint is out at the heel (next to ferrule).

Mixing Medium

I have found students more confused about this material than any other. Some have read so much about mediums, and have experimented with so many, that they have not had time to learn to paint!

For the present, forget prepared mediums. Use artists purified linseed oil. Modern methods of refining have overcome nearly all of its former tendency to yellow. If you want a heavier medium to make your paint stand out from the painted surface, substitute stand oil, which is sun-thickened linseed oil. Though turpentine is a popular medium, especially when mat (dull) effects are wanted, avoid it as it will thin and wash out the desirable dense quality of the pigment. Its only legitimate use is in the drawing stage for wiping errors from the canvas.

To obtain full advantage of the natural brilliance of your paint, use it as it comes from the tube. If it refuses to spread or move freely, mix in a minimum amount of linseed oil.

Now you are ready to paint!